Tips and Advice

Discover How To Install Laminate Flooring

Note Before You Install Laminate Flooring

To install laminate flooring, there are two types of locking systems in our range to be considered: Rapid Fit and Twin Clic. Both are easy to install, however Rapid Fit takes less time and is and easier to fit on your own, especially in a large room.

Laminate flooring is fitted as a “floating floor” and so should never be glued or nailed down. A floating floor needs space at the perimeter of the room to expand – flooring spacers help you achieve this “expansion gap”.

You can cover the expansion gap at the perimeter with either skirting or trim. Using skirting will give the most professional finish, but you will need to lift existing skirting before you install your flooring. You can either reinstall it afterwards or replace it with new skirting (skirting needs to be at least 15mm thick to cover expansion gaps). Using trim is an easier option as it fits directly against existing skirting.

At door openings use a matching threshold bar to cover expansion gaps and neatly finish the flooring. If the floor is longer or wider than 8 metres (perhaps in a room that is open plan), leave an intermediate 10mm expansion gap at a suitable location, and cover it with a flat threshold bar. Expansion gaps around radiator pipes are covered neatly by pipe surrounds.

To correctly calculate how much flooring you need, multiply the maximum length of the room by the maximum width to get the area in square metres and add 10% to allow for wastage. Always round up the number of packs you buy. Don’t forget to take into account any chimney breasts when calculating the length of skirting or trim you need.

How to install laminate flooring

Tarkett iD Tilt - Concrete Grey 24750001 | Clip - industrial floor

Leave unopened packs of flooring lying horizontally in the room where they are to be laid for 48 hours.

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Lay your underlay in rows at 90 degrees to your laminate flooring and butt the joints.

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Planks should be laid length-ways, parallel to the longest side of the room and towards the main incoming source of light if possible. Start the row by placing the plank with tongue facing the wall. Use spacers to create an expansion gap between the floor and the wall or skirting.

Continue with the first row, interlocking planks, making sure the row is straight and parallel with the wall. Don’t forget to maintain the gap with the wall with spacers. If you are installing in a kitchen or bathroom apply wood adhesive to all end and side tongue and groove joints before laying planks.

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To cut the final plank to to ensure it fits in, turn it face down and lay it next to previous plank, tongue to tongue, using spacers to maintain expansion gap with the wall. Use a square to mark a line across it in line with the end of the previous plank.

Cut the plank with a hand saw, jigsaw or miter saw. Then position it to complete the first row.

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You can use the off-cut to start the next row as long as it is at least 30cm long. If the off-cut is less than 30cm then start the next row with a plank cut in half to avoid joints in adjacent rows lining up.

Continue to lay planks in rows, staggering joints between planks in adjacent rows by at least 30cm.

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If you aim to install laminate flooring around a door frame, measure and transfer the shape of the frame to a plank and cut it out.

To achieve a good finishing, reduce the measurements slightly as you want the plank to fit right underneath the frame so that none of the sub-floor is visible. Next you’ll need to remove the bottom of the door frame with a saw.

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